Saturday, April 25, 2015

Kyoto & Nagoya, April 2015



Japan April 2015

March 29:
I’m starting this before our trip as some interesting things have happened.  While our grandsons were here about a week ago, we went to the Hilo breakwater to meet some friends.  We thought it would be an interesting experience and adventure for the boys as how often does anyone have a chance to actually walk on a breakwater?  I remembered from the time that I was much younger, looking at the huge boulders in awe and being able to walk to the second bend was an accomplishment.

To make a long story short, the boys completely enjoyed it.  Reyn especially, (the scarecrow) overcame his fear and even made it to the second bend.  However, on our way back, JJ slipped and we thought that she sprained her ankle.  After icing it down, the egg sized lump was greatly reduced in size. 

After a couple of days, she decided to see her doctor as we were scheduled to leave for Japan in about two weeks.  It turned out that she actually fractured a bone in two places.  Fortunately, the break was not on a weight bearing bone.  But, she is in a cast so we had to rethink our trip.

We called Hawn Air and found out that it would cost us about $1000.00 to rebook, mainly because we would lose the $400.00 that we paid for the “Comfort Plus” seats.  The remainder ($600.00) would be for the re-booking fee.  The main problem with going through with the trip was handling our baggage through the trains as we traveled to Nagoya. 

We finally had an epiphany and realized that we could forward our bags via Yamato Transport (did I ever mention that it’s hard being a senior citizen?).  We then proceeded to order a transport wheelchair from Amazon. 

After it arrived, we started to use the time to practice and work out the kinks.  So far, everything is working well so we are pretty confident that the trip will go well.  We will need to cut down of our baggage and picture taking but we are hopeful for another great trip.  The worst that could happen is we will spend most of our time under a Sakura tree, which isn’t bad at all.

I looked up maps of most of the stations what we will be going through and downloaded maps that show elevator locations.  And, as we normally have a very light daily schedule, we feel that the trip is “do-able”.

Two of our friends are accompanying us into and out of Japan and we will be spending the first and last two days with them in Kyoto.  They have a full itinerary so hopefully, we won’t hold them back.  To protect their privacy, I will refer to them as Perfecto (or “Perf”) and Purrfect (or “Purr”).  For those of you who know them, I’m sure that you will agree that those pseudonyms very accurately describe them.

We had the pleasure of reviewing Perf’s itinerary and it is more comprehensive than any tour itinerary that we’ve ever read.  He even has a brief history of the landmarks.  I guess it really shows his intellectualness.  Me and JJ, we just like to be in Japan and enjoy the ambiance.  The only culture and history I want to learn is of beer.  JJ likes to experience the different Onsens.  Our travel companions may refer to us as “Simple” and “Simpler” if they write about us.

We picked up Bento from Zippy’s the day before our flight.  JJ added Ume paste, Taegu and Spam.  It did not work out as we expected as the rice turned out really dry from cooling down the hot food, then refrigerating it.  Next time, we’ll pick it up in the morning before our flight.

To get from KIX to Kyoto, we are trying Yasaka instead of MK.  The primary reason is MK’s estimated travel time is much longer than Yasaka’s.  The main problem is returning, as one time, they wanted to pick us up at our hotel at about 2:00 p.m. instead of the 4:00 p.m. requested for our 6:00 p.m. check in (9:00 p.m. flight).  We ended up cancelling and caught the airport shuttle bus.

Yasaka also gives small discounts and offers WIFI too!

Tuesday, April 7:
This morning was really hectic.  Our alarm company was supposed to check out our house alarm system on Monday as they did not respond to an event (false alarm) on Saturday night when we were out.  No one showed up, so Monday afternoon, I called them and tell them that we are leaving on Tuesday for Japan and we have the alarm primarily for fire warning as we have pets in the house.  The person checked with her supervisor and promised to send a technician at 8:00 Tuesday morning.

Also, late Monday afternoon, we realized that our accountant did not call us for signing and paying our income taxes.  I called them and they told me to come down at 7:30.  We left the house at 7:15 and it took us 20 minutes to get to town.  Morning traffic is horrendous.  Hmmm, I wonder if it’s because I’m not working at Traffic anymore?  Nah, just too many cars on the road.  Going back home was super easy and we made it back by 8:00.  Then the alarm guy calls and tells me that he’s going to be late as he is stuck in traffic!  But, he fixed everything and all is good and we won’t have to worry.

It’s a good thing I had a checklist for closing up the house as I managed to check and secure everything really quickly and without getting stressed out.  I think I’ll end here and ask the flight attendant for a beer.

After we landed at KIX, we were told to wait for our gate checked wheelchair.  By the time we got the wheelchair and started working our way to immigration and customs, no other passengers from our flight were around.  We had a young lady assigned to help us.  She took all four of us through the wheelchair line, which is also the line for the airline crews.  Everyone went through really fast except for me.  The agent was just about to return my passport to me when he made a “surprise sound” like “uhh”.  He kept on looking at his computer monitor and I was actually getting worried.  A few years ago, I got stopped while leaving KIX for carrying a fork, spoon and knife combo, the kind boy scouts carry.  Added to that, all of our trips are to Japan and we travel to Japan at least three times a year.  I thought maybe they think that I’m a smuggler or drug dealer.  Fortunately, I finally got cleared.

Thanks to our escort, we avoided the really long line at immigration but it still took us about 1.5 hours before we got to Yasaka Shuttle.  Due to the language problem, we don’t really know how we were charged but it seems as though we were not charged for excess baggage as the total charge came out to only 12400 yen or only about $30.00 each.

After checking in, we all enjoyed the free ramen downstairs.  I still think that it is the best ramen that I’ve eaten anywhere.  Perf and Purr also seemed to enjoy theirs.  I can’t wait to hear their comparison of the Dormy Inn’s free ramen as compared to Gogyo’s burnt ramen that their friend recommended although I do admit that Gogyo’s “fiery fire show” is much better.

Even though I slept really late last night, I got up at about 2:30 (7:30 Hawn Time) this morning.  The internet speed here is fantastic:  62 Mbps upload and 96 Mbps download!

The plan today is take a slow pace and show Perf n’ Purr the basics of getting around Kyoto via bus subway, train and taxi.  Hopefully, we’ll get some great adventures and pictures along the way.

Thurs. April 9:
Today was our first full day in Kyoto.  The plan was just to orient Perf n’ Purr with the basics of getting around in Kyoto.

We started the day by enjoying breakfast at Amici’s.  Amazingly, the owner remembered us.  We all enjoyed our breakfast and I was amazed that it was enough to fill Perf as he is a BIG GUY and can really put away some food.

Going to Amici for breakfast necessitated the finding and use of elevators because of JJ.  Even I got confused sometimes, as I never really thought about the different levels at the train station.  When we enter from the north side from street level, we normally go up one flight with the escalator.  However, when we go down on the south side where the restaurant is, we go down two flights to reach the same street level.  Did I ever mention that sometimes it’s hard being a senior?  Anyway, once we leave Kyoto, Perf n’ Purr will be using escalators so on the way back to our hotel, so we left JJ in her wheelchair on the south side and I walked Perf n’ Purr through the station via the normal escalator route.  When I got back to JJ, she was surrounded by security guards……JUST KIDDING.  I bet that got your interest!

We then went to Yodabashi to pick up a data sim card for Perf and for me to sign up to a free wifi network for visitors.   Perf and a clerk spent quite a bit time trying to get the phone to work, unfortunately without success.  I used some of the time to look around the store, which is amazing.  They have shelves and shelves of keyboards, monitors, mice, earphones, pens…..they even  have their own “dollar store” and a supermarket downstairs.  Many workers, great service and affordable prices.  If they ever came to the U.S., they would decimate the competition.  Well, on a second thought, they wouldn’t be able to bring their workers so they might possibly end up like Walmart.  Perhaps mail order would work.  Watch out Amazon and Baidu!

Speaking of Japan workers, I saw a guy sanitizing the displayed ear buds, one by one.  Do you think an American company or worker would ever do that?

We caught the subway to Nishiki Market without any problems.  We managed to find the needed elevators pretty easily, until we got to exit 16 at the Shijo Station.  The nearest elevator was really far away from our exit so we decided to walk up the stairs and have JJ rest as needed.  As typical of JJ, she managed without complaining and minimal assistance.

The plan was for our buddies to go to Gogyo to feast on their famous burnt ramen.  Unfortunately, we took so long at Yodobashi that Gogyo was closed.  So they decided to join us at the roast beef bowl restaurant.  When we got there, we realized that we were in the wrong place and left.  The roast beef bowl restaurant was a couple doors down.  Unfortunately, they were closed too.  So back to the other restaurant.  Some people have no shame, when they are tired and hungry.  The restaurant served Korean themed food and I thought my spicy beef was too bold although I really enjoyed the koko that was served as a side dish.

We then walked through Nishiki to the Gion area.  We made a couple of stops for ice cream and senbei as the other three seem to love their little snacks.  Pushing JJ on the wheelchair was much less strenuous than I anticipated, but then again, we pretty much stayed on level ground.  I told her that be would be much easier if she lost 2 or 3 pounds!  My back hurts just a bit and I think that was caused by my being forced to push the chair from a further back position due to bags hanging immediately behind her.

We saw a few Sakura blooms along the way and we all stopped to take pics.  It was a really tranquil and enjoyable walk as we were blessed with good weather and moderately cool temps.  JJ managed to take quite a few pics while sitting on her wheelchair.  These should be interesting as they will all be taken from a much different perspective.

After Gion, the plan was to walk north until we got to the Karasuma subway, catch it until we needed to transfer to the Teramachi line and return to our hotel.  It was a good plan but…….we walked, and walked, and walked and finally I decided that because I didn’t really know where we were, we should catch the bus that was right in front of us, mostly empty and with a Kyoto station sign on it’s front.

As we were boarding, the bus driver said something and Perf understood it to mean that we could get on but it would be much faster if we got on the subway, just down the street, around the corner, to the right.  We found it easily and even better, there was an elevator right there facing the street.  Remember, they don’t call them subways for nothing!

Perf is proving to be a fast learner and a quick thinker as when we got to the station to transfer to the Teramachi line, he quickly figured out that we were on the wrong side of the track and quickly figured out how to get to the other side.
Riding on the subway, even carrying JJ’s wheelchair, was pretty easy.  She probably had the hardest part as she had to walk in using her crutches and sometimes stand as the subway was so crowded that people couldn’t even see that she was handicapped.  When we got back to the Kyoto station, I forgot my first rule, "know your exit number".  I went the wrong way and had to ask.
Upon exiting the elevator, we saw that it was almost dark and time for dinner at our favorite place, the Izakaya at Hoke Club.  When we got there, the manager still remembered us from prior visits.  We ordered many different varieties of food and amazingly, ate everything that was served.  The dishes varied from Plum Chazuke to Tekamaki to Roast Beef slices to Sushi.  All were delicious.  The atmosphere is much different from when we started eating there several years ago.  There are more women, with their friends as well as in groups with men and women and couples.  Before, the crown seemed more like the after work bonding typical of Japanese companies.

When we left, the manager came out to thank us for the visit and omiyage and Perf told us later that the manager stayed in a bowed position until we actually went out the front door.

We capped off the day by meeting to eat the ramen a couple of hours later.  JJ went to the Onsen, I took a nap and Perf got his sim card and iphone working.  Impressive.  That guy does not give up!  Well, that’s why I call him “Perfecto”.  I hope he never feels that he has a vendetta against me that must be made good.  Yikes!!

Don’t know what Purr did while waiting but she looked like she hit the “wall” and was ready to sleep.  She was still pretty and looked tired so I guess you can say “pretty tired”.  These youngsters are so soft, nowadays!

The day was a fantastic start to this trip.  JJ and I are really looking forward to getting back to Kyoto next week to hear the adventures of Perf n’ Purr.

As I write this, I’m snacking on a Chocolate roll and tea.  It’s quite good with the sweetness of the roll perfectly complementing the slight bitterness of the tea.  Ah, how I enjoy my “quiet time” in the morning.

Have a great day, Dudes and Dudettes!!



Friday, April 10:
JJ wanted to eat at the buffet downstairs.  I was a little apprehensive as she is really particular about her food and I’m the one who is wheeling her around.  And you know that my patience quotient is about a 3.2 with 10 being very patient.  My fears were unfounded as she was pretty good in deciding quickly.  We even got our favorite window facing seats.

The food was pretty good and the same as all of our other visits.  I enjoyed the clam miso soup and koko the most.  And you know JJ, she enjoyed everything!

We were debating whether we should cash our travelers checks or save them and use an ATM.  We finally decided to cash the checks as we didn’t know if JR would accept a credit card as payment for the Shinkansen.  I left JJ at the train station and went to cash the checks.  We got a good exchange rate of 119.340!!  But lo and behold, JR accepted our charge card as payment.  (the CNN site had the Yen/Dollar a bit over 120.  Getting about 1% less at the Japan Post Office Bank has been our experience)

The fellow at JR who helped us was really perceptive.  He saw JJ in a wheelchair so be booked us on a wheelchair car with reserved seats.  The cost for the two of us was 11180 Yen (<$100.00).  The trip was fast and uneventful.

Nagoya station is pretty big and confusing.  The station maps that we downloaded were of no help at all.  We decided to eat lunch at the station.  Good choice!  The ramen I ate was even better than the one at Dormy Inn.  But, when I mentioned this to JJ, she asked for a taste of the dashi and she said that it was “bland”.  I couldn’t believe this and I exclaimed that it had a great depth of flavor and perfectly seasoned!  Ai yai yah!

After lunch, JJ agreed to TRY and catch the subway to our hotel.  We found the station just outside of the train station but could not find an elevator.  We walked and looked but just could not find one.  Finally, we decided to walk down the stairs and go into the subway station.  While looking for a ticket machine, we saw an elevator.  We decided to go on it and see where it was on topside so we could use it the next time.  I was really surprised when we reached the street level.  We were OUTSIDE of the station and can now easily find it again.

The subway car was really crowded.  As soon as we boarded, a young mother and her young son stood up and offered JJ their seat.  An older woman spoke to me in Japanese and I told her my “nihongo wakarimasen”.  She then told a young guy in front of me to move so I cold place the collapsed wheelchair next to the wall.  JJ’s injury has shown the both of us that most people want to be nice and do good.  Well, all except that old man in Kyoto who gave us the “eye” at the train station when we didn’t move as fast as he wanted us to.  And we were not taking our time either.  His patient quotient must be minus 5 or he was rushing to visit his sick mother (grouch like that could never find a wife or girlfriend)!

When we reached our station (Fushimi on the Higashiyama line), we made it out pretty easily.  However, for some unexplained reason, I got my east-west directions confused and we ended up going the wrong way.  But, we finally reached the Dormy Inn.  We also got to see some pretty Tulips at a park.

The hotel is new or recently upgraded.  It is really nice.  The young man who checked us in seemed to speak English well but he really got us confused.  For instance, when I asked him if the vending was on the top floor, he said that it was on our floor too, the third floor.  However, our room is on the 12th floor.  Then he told us that the Onsen is on the 13th floor but it was on the 2nd floor.  HYF?

Upon entering, the room is nice and bright.  The A/C control has a touch screen.  The only downer of our room is that it has only one small trashcan.  My empty beer cans themselves will fill it up.  There was also a young kid in the hallway making lots of noise.  Must be a gaijin.

When I wheeled JJ to the Onsen, I had hoped that I could get a massage at the same time.  Unfortunately, I had to make an appointment for about an hour later.  My back really hurts from pushing JJ around.  Did I mention that she needs to lose about 2 or 3 pounds?  Most of the pain was gone after that one session.  Like in Kyoto on our last trip in January, I fell asleep early on and had to be wakened up.

We stayed up for the ramen.  The dining room was surprisingly empty.  There were less that 5 of us.  It was good but not as good as the ramen at the train station.  The workers were super helpful,, even serving us and coming back to get our empty bowls.

It seems that ever since we came here, we met so many helpful people.  It will be interesting to find out if it is due to the local culture toward the handicapped or the elderly or if they are just courteous and helpful by nature.

Pushing JJ around is a lot easier than I imagined.  It is hardly tiring at all and as mentioned earlier, only my back hurts a bit.  The only other problem is when it rains.  She uses an umbrella and has to hold it up high enough so I don’t get blinded.  We might get a raincoat for her but that too might not be perfect as it doesn’t breath and would be hard to take it on and off when we enter buildings.

We are supposed to go to a fire festival on Saturday but might opt out if it’s a rainy day.

Saturday, April 11:
Our Dormy Inn Nagoya includes breakfast.  When we first went there, it was a bit empty.  But it seems that lots of people enjoy a later start as time passed as the dining room really filled up.

The staff again were super helpful with JJ, even filling plates of food for her as I was wheeling her around.  I watched them interact with other guests and they are very helpful with everyone that I could see.  They even moved a chair at a table so we could wheel JJ right in.

The dining room and kitchen looks brand new and bright and clean.  Unfortunately, I forgot my camera so pics will have to wait.  They had an interesting coffee machine.  It featured fresh ground coffee as “coffee”, “weak coffee” and “charcoal making coffee”.  The two that we tried were really good with the charcoal one having a better flavor.

I saw a couple of weird charges on our card.  I didn’t want to question it yet as it is still “temporary”.  The problem is that if it is fraudulent and we report it, the bank will cancel  the card and we will be left with only my credit union card which was never set up with a pin for ATM use.  Lesson learned as we used to depend on travelers checks but are now using mostly charge cards and have a bit of a learning curve in using ATM’s.

After going through our daily charges, I think that the two temporary charges are for our shuttle to our hotel.  They don’t add up to what the copy of my receipt is but the charges are still temporary so I won’t worry about it.

When we left the hotel to go to Tsurumai Park, we were greeted by the sun shining and a really cool breeze.  The Sakura blooms were few but there were a lot of people there, surprisingly, mostly very young as we usually see a wide variety of ages.

The park was very tranquil and we saw several artists setching.  We got a real treat when we saw a small crane like bird use it’s piercing beak to catch fish.  We tried to buy some food for a light lunch but their drinks were not cool enough for selling.

Just as we were leaving, JJ spotted an Asahi sign and when we went over, the lady had grilled beef on a stick for sale.  A good thing about having a wheelchair is you don’t have to look for a place to sit, rather just look for a shady spot.  When I started positioning JJ’s chair, this guy told me to sit in his spot.  Did I mention how nice people here are?

We caught the subway back and decided to visit Daiso so JJ could buy hangers.  It was in a huge shopping building, similar to Aeon in Kyoto.  This building was connected to the subway station by a huge underground shopping complex.

While looking at the directory, we saw that they had a Uniqlo store.  They are supposed to sell soft and warm vests and jackets.  They actually sell a huge variety of clothing for men, women and children.  The sizing of the jackets were too small for the average woman from Hawaii.

When we finally got to Daiso, it was really crowded and had really narrow aisles.  We finally decided to leave as we didn’t want to wait in that long, long line just to pay for hangers.  We walked back to our hotel and ate a small snack before heading out to Tejikara for the fire festival.

We had to catch the Mietetsu line to Gifu, then transfer to Tejikara.  The station staff was so helpful and got us to the correct platform so quickly that I never got to really learn how to do it.  We also found that if they offer to help, it is better to accept as they will get you in a car where you can stay in the wheelchair.

I had a bit of a scary moment.  The train agent got us to our platform so quickly that I couldn’t use the bathroom.  We had about a 10 minute wait so I decided to go.  I had to up and down several stairs and make many turns to get there.  When I got back, I saw that I had missed my last turn and returned to JJ from the other end of the platform.  At that point, I was just happy to have found my way back!

The festival was about a 5 minute walk from the station.  When we got there, there was a huge crowd on the street full of food and game booths.  It was a great “party” atmosphere.  We tried some of the food and it was good, the beef on a stick tasted like Kobe beef.  A really nice thing was that they had trash boxes all over the place.

We found a nice place to park JJ’s wheelchair to watch the festival.  The fire festival itself was disappointing.  It was really drawn out and boring.  Even the fireworks consisted of only a “Roman Candle” like display.  As some of the fireworks were quite close to the crowd and JJ got a bit of ash in her eye.  Poor thing, everything is happening to her.  But, you have to take the bad with the good, right?  Remember she also won the 35K playing Let It Ride in Vegas?

I think that there may be stigma about using or sitting in a wheelchair in Japan.  First of all, you rarely see anyone in a wheelchair and we sometimes see people, especially children, staring.  Then, at the festival, as JJ was standing quite a bit so she could take pics, I offered an older lady the chair to sit on.  She seemed quite happy as she looked really tired leaning against the tree for support.  But after a few moments, her husband made her get up and stand.  I don’t know for sure if the wheelchair is viewed negatively but was just wondering.  In every town or city that we’ve visited this trip, they have wheelchair ramps where ever needed, such as at intersections.

The train staff again made the return to Nagoya uneventful.  I even fell asleep and if JJ fell asleep too, we would have ended up in Tokyo!  A big problem we are encountering at the various subway stations is not knowing the proper floor to go to using the elevator.  Only a few elevators have a sign by the button with the subway name and direction.  Most just say “B1F, B2F, etc. and the floor we are on is not even identified so we don’t have a reference.

Back to the hotel, had a fast Asahi, eat the ramen (great service again), and drink more Asahi.  Got to keep that tank full!

If the Nara fire festival had similar vendors near the festival itself, it would be purrfect!  As far as the Tejikara festival goes, we would not return.  We already made our flight reservation for January for the Nara festival.  Care to join us?  Advice to you photographers, bring a monopod and a remote release (or a tall ladder) so you can take pics over the crowd.

Sunday, April 12:
Wow, it’s already day six.  This trip is proving to be very enjoyable for me, with JJ in a wheelchair.  People have commented on how great, giving and loving I am.  “Lyman, you are the best husband, because   ______ would never do that for me”.  But the truth is, the great part is I don’t have to wait for her.  When shopping, if the store is crowded or has small aisles, we just leave.  But, as she exclaimed, now she is always one step ahead of me!

I’m really amazed at how many people don’t look at where they are walking.  We’ve endured several “close calls” on this trip.  Besides walking into us, some just step right in front of us and others abruptly stop.  In really crowded places, we started to remove the footrests to lessen the chance of hitting someone in front of us.  That seemed to work pretty well.

The plan for today was to go to Higashiyama Zoo and Botanical Garden.  Catching the subway was easy.  Once we got to the station, there were no maps or directional signs.  JJ said to just follow families with kids as it is a zoo.  It worked!  Once in a while, it pays to listen to her.  And I mean, once in a while, not most of the time and definitely not all the time!

The zoo is built on a hill.  There was a lot of long slopes and in the steepest areas, they had a few elevators.  They had some interesting animals such as Koala and Polar Bears.  They also had a slow moving Rhinoceros in a large pen and big cats in a small enclosure.  HYF?

The zoo had really poor directional signing.  Our main interest was the botanical garden and we were unable to find the path to enter it.  We followed a sign that said Botanical Garden but when we got there, it said “no strollers” and we took it to mean wheelchairs also.   When we got close to the main exit, we looked at the map and the place that we thought was the entry to the gardens was just for a greenhouse.

The nicest thing about that zoo was that there were so many families, some were three generation families.  This is so much different from what we see at either the Hilo or Honolulu zoos.  Makes you wonder about values.  In Japan, families have real time interaction with their kids.  I have never seen organized sports for children like we have in Hawaii.  HYF?

We couldn’t find a place to eat lunch in the zoo so we left to find a restaurant.  At first, the only place that looked viable was McDonalds.  We walked for several blocks and couldn’t find one.  We finally ended up at a Donbori and Udon restaurant.  Both of us chose the beef bowl and it was quite good.  We couldn’t figure out the computerized ordering system that prints tickets so we had to ask for help.  It’s easy, once you can read Japanese and know the system.

Traffic in the area was really heavy.  We were amazed as the super nice people of Nagoya immediately change to angry, bitter old people when they get behind the wheel.  We heard numerous horns sounding and it all seemed so “unjapanesey”.  I guess western culture is slowly making an inroad.

After lunch, we hoped to go to Heiwa park, which is supposed to be really close to the subway station.  We started toward the general direction we were told to go and I finally told JJ, this hill is too long and we need to turn around.  The full stomach and an Asahi didn’t help but I just couldn’t go up that hill……and come back down again.

We decided to go to Sakae station and walk back to our hotel, just so we can know the area better.  Along the way back, we heard some loud rock music so we decided to take a look.  The band was comprised to three people, the singer and star, a foxy looking Japanese girl dressed in a wedding gown, a guitarist with great showmanship dressed as a Jesuit priest and the drummer who would have looked very masculine if he wasn’t dressed up as a bride.  They were charismatic, loud and full of energy.

Finally got back to our hotel.  It’s a good thing that I signed up for a massage today as my back is really hurting from all of the uphill pushing and downhill braking today.

The only negative thing about our hotel is the location.  It is about a 8 minute walk to the subway station but it just seems so long.  But so far, the staff and facility are really outstanding and that makes things work for us.  The lack of restaurants nearby is also a big negative.  We are so used to the convenience of Kyoto Dormy Inn.

At this point, I really don’t care if we do anything or see anything more.  What we’ve seen and done is more than I expected, given JJ’s injury.  Just being in Japan is exciting, fulfilling and relaxing.  We’ll return to Hawaii feeling rejuvenated and ready to tackle the world.

BTW, I finally sold my Vette.  We were together for 15 years and she sure looked good,  even at her age.   She was my mistress that JJ accepted and never got jealous at.  She still looked as foxy as the day she left the assembly line.  What great curves.  What a throaty roar.  What power.  What passion.  But time and technology move on and I have to prepare for my next great love.

I need to start acting my age.  No more bright, “Torch Red” painted Vette.  Just a grandfatherly Tesla Model X SUV, that will beat the pants off my old Vette!  BANZAI!!!  That car is like a perfect woman, fast and QUIET!  Sorry ladies, but you know I’m just trying to be funny and don’t mean it, right?  What I really mean is, QUIET and fast!  Heh, heh, heh.  Before you get mad at me, remember, JJ is one step ahead of me so all is good.


Have a great day, everyone!

Monday, April 13:
BTW, a financial genius suggested that if you are away from home and need to report a credit card fraud, take out cash before reporting it, if that card is your only source of money.  I really admire people who can solve problems with simplicity and whose solutions make me think, “why didn’t I think of that?”.

I’ve been getting up much later than normal for most of this trip.  This is mostly because I stay up for the Dormy Inn ramen instead of taking a nap before hand.  Last night’s ramen was really great.  I don’t know what makes the subtle difference between cooks but it happens and you can actually taste it.  JJ said she noticed that this cook shook the noodles out four to five times instead of three that she saw the night before.  Hard to believe it made a difference but then what is the cause?

This morning, the worst thing that could happen to me happened.  Yes, we lost internet connectivity.  Ai yai yuh!  So I can’t even read the papers while waiting for JJ.  Arrrgggghh!

Although we went down for breakfast pretty early (about 8:00) the dining room was pretty empty.  I guess being more of a business hotel, most of the guests were at work.  The tofu here is amazingly delicious.  Better than even the tofu at the Kyoto Dormy Inn.

The day looked rainy so we changed our plans and decided to visit the Osu shopping area instead of Nagoya Castle.  The shopping area is really large. Very large when compared to Nishiki Market in Kyoto, but it really lacks the diversity of type of businesses.  Some of the shops almost bordered on the bizarre, such as a tattoo shop.

Fortunately, one of the stores we went into was a 100 yen store called Seria.  I found a screwdriver and pliers which I needed to fix JJ’s wheelchair brakes.  We used them so much that I think the cable stretched and the brakes hardly held at all.  The items in the pic cost a total of 972 yen (100 yen store is actually a 108 yen store).

We enjoyed lunch at a small restaurant that served Unagi and sashimi.  The owner was very accommodating as the sashimi lunch that included tea, rice and miso soup had three varieties of fish and I just wanted maguro and he graciously said that having only maguro was not a problem.  Total tab with a beer was only 3600 yen and both our food orders were delicious.

Seated next to us were two Hell’s Angles, full of tattoos, from Denmark!  At first I thought they were American as when the owner couldn’t understand what they wanted, they started talking louder to him.

After lunch, we continued to look for omiyage but could not find any.  I know that for JJ, a large part of her enjoyment while traveling is shopping for omiyage.  Not being able to enter those small little shops must be a downer for her.  Most of the shops in Osu were clothing stores.  We finally decided to go back to our hotel early so JJ could go to the onsen and me just chill out with some Asahi beer.

Hopefully, tomorrow will be sunny so we can go to the Nagoya Castle.

This morning, because it was raining, we asked the front desk to call a taxi for us.  The driver seemed nice enough but the fare to Osu was 1500 yen.  I don’t think he was long hauling and traffic was pretty heavy.  The company was named Malaysian Taxi and there was a 200 yen surcharge for something..

The fare back was about 780 yen.  We gave the driver 1000 yen as we waved him down after another taxi just drove past us.  Fare difference almost double?  HYF?

The really bad part of staying at this hotel is the lack of restaurants in the immediate (within 2 minutes walking) area.  So far, we’ve eaten every dinner in our room.  And dinner is composed of sandwiches and salad from Circle K.  We were thinking of catching a cab to Nagoya Station for dinner but decided it just wasn’t worth it as we didn’t know if the restaurants were our type (old people).  We saw an ad for a Izakaya touting their seafood but the pics were all of vegetables.  HYF?

So far in Nagoya, our breakfasts and lunches were really great but dinner, could be so much better.  In spite of this, I would still stay at the same hotel because of the onsen for JJ, the ramen for me and the friendliness of the staff.  If they served even a simple dinner,  say chazuke, tofu, ume and fish, it would be purrfect.

Hasta Lavista, Baybeee!

Tuesday, April 14:
I might be coming down with a cold.  I may have gotten it from a worker in a Kyoto restaurant who was sniffling and handling my credit card.  I tried JJ’s magic cure of gargling with salt and warm water and am just hoping it works as it normally does back home.  Thankfully, other than the pain in the back of my throat, I feel fine and it gives me an excuse to suck on my li hing mui without guilt.  Not bringing my humidifier for my CPAP is probably aggravating the situation as the humidity is so low, I’ve been getting static electricity shocks constantly.

I forgot to mention the other day, when we were leaving Higashiyama Zoo, there were some really young scouts soliciting money.  We passed them without thought but then decided to turn back and give them something as the people of this city have shown us so much aloha.  After I emptied my pocket of all of my loose change, the scoutmaster said something to me in Japanese.  Of course, I responded with my “nihongo wakarimasen”.  He then said “thank you”.  As we were walking away, one of the mothers stopped me and pinned a green feather on me.  I don’t know the meaning or symbolism of the feather but I hope it did not mean “easy fish”.

The internet connection has really been spotty the last couple of days.  Sometimes, we enjoy blazingly fast speeds and other times, it’s like the old dialup days.

Our new luggage is working out really well.  Our old hard sided suitcase opened like a clamshell.  While it did protect the contents from physical as well as water damage, they just took up so much space in the typical small Japanese hotel room.

Even though those suitcases were only a couple of years old, we decided to change them out as most of our travel is to Japan.  Delsey came out with a new line of hard sided luggage that opens from the side.  Like their softsided brothers, they are easier to pack and take up minimal space when opened.  It also was available in my favorite color, Purple.  True Okinawan Ninjas LOVE purple!

Since it is still raining, we decided to go to the Nagoya Science Museum.  We went to Fushimi station via the Fushimi underground mall.  The mall runs along side the subway line.  JJ found some interesting tops.  Unfortunately, we had to pay cash for the items.

When we got to the station, we couldn’t find our way to exit 5, which is really close to the NSM.  I asked an agent and he told me how to get to the gate.  He also told us that we wouldn’t have to buy a ticket and to just walk through.  The directions and the path to gate 5 was very confusing as we had to walk down a walkway, take the elevator down, then walk some more and tae the elevator up, then walk up some stairs out of exit 5.  We got lost.  Terribly lost.  We found another agent and he told us that we were going the wrong way and to go back.  We finally found our way out by looing at the vaious station maps which showed our progress in working our way out.  When we got to exit 5, whe agent just waved us through.  We then realized that the first agent notified the other agents that we were just passing through the station.  Amazing.  Can’t imagine that ever happening in the U.S.A.

The NSM was just a short walk in the rain.  It consisted of about 6 or 7 floors.  The place was like the Discovery Center in Honolulu on steroids.  There were a lot of hands on exhibits and the unfortunately, all of the written and spoken explanations were in Japanese.  They offered an app for language translation but both JJ and I did not have our phones.

The highlights for us was an exhibit showing how tornados are formed and also one showing electrical discharges from a Tesla Coil.  Wow.

We ate lunch at the museum’s cafeteria.  They did not offer a wide selection so we both ordered hot dogs and pepsies.  The hot dog had an unusual sausage that was really tasty.  The bun was also toasted, which made it all the better.

The walk back to our hotel was surprisingly short, like about ½ the distance and time that we experienced this morning.  We may have found a place to eat across the street from our hotel.  It looks like a seafood restaurant but it is really small so it may cater to only regulars.

We walked across the street to the restaurant.  We were a bit apprehensive when we first entered but were greeted warmly, like we were old friends.  We explained to the lady that “nihongo wakarimasen”.  She gestured what I thought to mean, “no problem”.
She seated us right next to the chef’s sushi bar.  The chef told us that they did not have an English menu nor a menu with pictures.  We asked if they had scallops and they looked at us questionly.  So I took her outside and pointed to the scallops.  They also had oysters.  It turns out that it is an Izaaya.
We ordered 4 scallops, 2 oysters, Katsuo sashimi (which didn’t have that strong fish flavor of our local Aku), and Teka Maki made of Katsuo and a big bottle of Asahi.  They even gave us each a side dish of steamed clams.  Total tab was 3390 yen.
They prepped the scallops and oysters by placing them in a closed container and steaming them for 10 minutes.  Everything was flavorful and we hope to go back tomorrow night.
When we got back to our hotel, we were in the elevator when 3 people came in.  They sounded like they were from Hawaii so i asked them if they were.  They said yes and they asked if I was from Hawaii.  I told them that I live here in Nagoya but was educated in Hawaii so that's why i have that Hawaii accent.  As they looked at me in amazement, I told them, "just joking, we're from Hilo".  Lady says, she used to live in Hilo, what's your name?  I say, Lyman Jakahi.  She says, are you related to David Jakahi?  I say, yes, he is our son.  She asks, what is he doing now?  I say, he is teaching at Waipahu high school.  As she looks at us in wonder, I tell her, the kids cannot pull anything over him as he did everything.  She agrees. Isn't it great to be remembered?  She even remembered that we use to own George’s.
David was so convincing, even as a youngster.  He convinced me and JJ that the schools no longer gave report cards.  Perhaps he should have run for mayor.  He is surely more honest than his classmate, Beeeely K.  I tell you, Beeeely K gives new meaning to the term, “D..b S..t”.  What was he thinking?  He had it made.
So, there you have it.  We had a great day, got lost, found our way, ate some pretty interesting food and made a few friends.  Doesn’t get better than that.  A great day in Japan is better than a great day anywhere else.
Sayonara, Dudes and Dudettes,
Wednesday April 15:
I got up feeling pretty refreshed until I realized that it was 2:30 as I went to sleep at about 11 last night.  So after sending out my journal, I went back to bed and managed to fall asleep again.
The plan for today, which is our last full day in Nagoya, is to go to the Toyota Museum if it’s raining and to the Nagoya Castle and Yoro Falls if it’s clear.  It turns out that we did neither.
After breakfast, JJ said that she really wanted to go to the tulip festival in Ishizu and Yoro falls if we had enough time.  We looked out the window and she tells me, “see, isn’t that the sun shining?”.  Me, “no, the ground looks like it just rained”.  So I finally tell her, let’s chance it.  If it’s raining, we can eat lunch and come back.  Even a rainy day outdoors seems more fun that the Toyota Museum.
When we are downstairs, we see the Hawaii group and talk story with them.  They mention that the hotel has a free shuttle to the Nagoya Train Station.  Perfect, as we were going to catch a cab.
We bought our tickets to Kurama, where we have to transfer to Ishizu.  Once we get to Kurama, no one even asks us if we need help.  “Angels” appear miraculously, whenever we get lost.  It is just amazing.  From that point on, at almost every stop, someone was there to assist us.  And more amazingly, every one of them made us feel that our welfare was all that mattered.  Don’t fake it to experience it though, bad karma.
Once we got to Ishizu, the directions on the internet stated “catch the city bus”.  Great, except that the city buses don’t run on a regular time schedule and the schedule posted is all in Japanese.  As we are waiting, this old lady comes to the bus stop and starts talking story to JJ.  Once the lady understood what our plans were, she talked to each bus that came by to see if that bus went to the festival.  The train station is so small that they don’t even have an agent at the station.  Before getting on the train, you need to take a ticket from a machine in the station, similar to a bus.
Later, the lady talks to me and it seems as though we have a two hour wait for the bus.  I think she says she is going to find a taxi for us.   While she is on the phone, a cab comes by with a passenger dropping off at the train station.  The old lady goes up to him and explains our plight.  She tells us, that he will take us.  We are elated.  I give her the box of caramacs that I’ve been carrying around and she was thrilled.   She even tells the taxi driver to ask us when we want him to pick us up.  That what makes traveling on your own fun and satisfying
The Tulips were past their prime but the air was clear, crisp and cool.  And, the adventure in getting there made it just so much fun exciting.  Experiencing travel by wheelchair in Japan proved to be fairly easy, most of the time.  Come to think of it, the only times we encountered problems was when we felt that we did not want to bother or impose on them.  We also stayed away from areas that we knew was hilly or had long slopes,
We ate a light lunch at the festival which was a grilled herb chicken.  Not really great but good enough when you’re hungry.
The taxi came right on time and got us back to the train station.  The drivers in this little town are crazy!  They speed on the narrow town streets and seem like they are playing “chicken” with each other. 
The day was blessed with many angels, great weather of some pretty flowers.  Life doesn’t get better than this.
My sore throat is gone but I have this raw feeling in my chest every time I cough, which is not that often.  Fortunately for me, unlike most people, I cannot multitask.  So when I’m pushing JJ around, I forget about everything else.  Once we get back to the room though, I can feel all of the pain.  HYF?
For dinner, we went back to the same Izakaya.  Too bad we didn’t find it earlier.  Food for the most part was good and the people friendly.  I especially like the shrimp that was grilled.  I got to eat all the best parts, the head and tail.
Tomorrow, we forward our bags to KIX and catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto.  Probably make a side trip to Uji to pick up tea.
I was so tired last night that I went to sleep right after dinner, about 7:00.  I even skipped my favorite ramen.  Got up at 2:30 so I am right back in the groove.
Surprisingly, several of you have reacted with amazement regarding my pushing JJ around.  It’s nothing special.  Every husband would do it if the need ever arose.  And the experience has given us a greater appreciation of those who have a lifetime of disability as well as the many strangers who offered assistance. 
Hasta la vista, dudes and dudettes,
Thursday April 16:
Learned a little trick today about catching the train.  When I bought the Shinkansen tickets to go to Kyoto, I asked if I could buy tickets al the way to Uji, where I wanted to buy tea.  They said it was possible and that made it so simple when we were transferring from the Shinkansen to the JR line in Kyoto.  Rather than having to leave the Shinkansen station and buy the JR tickets, we came out of the platform and went straight to the platform to Uji.
Once we got to Uji, it was an easy walk to the area where they sell tea as it was mostly a slight slope downhill.  We found a nice restaurant and decided to eat there as the last time we were in Uji with David and Janet, we went to place that must have had the worst lunch anywhere.  Tru fac!  The crowd in this restaurant had a lot of locals such as tradesmen and cab drivers, so we knew we picked a winner.  JJ’s Unagi was the real thing but my steak was actually teri bbq.   Nevertheless, it was quite good.
Again, my favorite tea shop was closed.  I like that shop because it’s one of the smaller ones in the area and they also have many cat figurines on display.  Perhaps the elderly owners are in Hawaii.
I had quit buying tea from Uji because it was so convenient in Nishiki Market.  But the last time we went, two shops that we went to were polar opposites.  One was super expensive and the other was really cheap.  I honestly cannot tell a difference between the two but what if the cheaper one is from China?  Who knows what they allow for fertilizer and weed control?  The tea from Uji is priced between the two extremes at Nishiki and is from Japan.
While waiting for the tea to be packed, we took a little walk and saw that the Wisteria was in bloom.  While JJ was ooing and awing about the beauty of the bloom, I thought, eh!  She wants to go closer so she can smell the blooms and I tell her, probably won’t be able to as the wind is to our backs.  When we get close, we could really see the bees, happily flying around in bee paradise, dozens if not hundreds of them.  Every so often, JJ would say, “it smells so sweet”.  She was in JJ paradise at that moment.  (She probably couldn't smell anything but just wanted to prove me wrong).
Going back to the train station was physically strenuous.  In addition to our full load from Nagoya, we bought a lot of tea.  Going up that long slope was a bit tiring.  When the train agent asked if we needed help, I enthusiastically exclaimed, “yes”.  But the biggest help was in Kyoto where the agent took us out of the station via the numerous elevators.  It’s really easy if you know your way around and can speak and read Japanese.
As we were walking toward our hotel, I see this little yellow car in the distance, with it’s hood opened, backwards, a sure sign of something exotic.  It turned out to be a Honda 2 seater.  Cute.
Once we got back to our hotel and checked in, all I could think about were a couple of cool Asahi’s.  I called to make an appointment for a massage and a guy answered.  He said I could come up right now so I did.  The guy had hands like a vise grips.  Unlike the ladies, who I thought knew when to back off, this guy made it hurt.  Even when I “umphed” in pain, he barely backed off.  When we were finally done, he said that my shoulders were especially tight.  My calves too, FYI.  Boy did those two areas hurt.
We ate dinner at our Izakaya.  When we first got there, I was super tired but finally got my second wind.  I will be going to sleep soon and hopefully be able to get up for the ramen.  Perhaps Perf and Purr will be there.
After this trip, with JJ in a wheelchair, traveling without it will be like going from platinum status to steerage.  From our experience, if you are on a tour and wheelchair bound, don’t expect special treatment.  But if you are on your own, don’t worry about it as this country takes care of the infirmed.  But once the Americans find out about this, there is no doubt in my mind that some will fake it just to get the extra care and attention.  So, shhhhhhhh, tell you friends but don’t let those xxxxx’s know.  Did you ever hear the story about people hiring handicapped guides to get into Disneyland in the U.S.A. just so they would not have to stand in line?  HYF?   Bachi or what?
I went to sleep right after dinner, but, JJ got me up at 9:00 to go downstairs.  At first, I was a bit disappointed as Perf and Purr were not there.  Then I started thinking that it is probably for the better as we would end up talking story and ruining their rest for tomorrow.  Then surprise, there they are, looking so fresh and energetic, like the day is just starting.  They just returned from their outing!
We are completely engrossed listening to their stories, especially the ones of all the great and helpful people that they’ve met, such as restaurant owners referring them to other restaurants who serve what they were hoping to eat (Unagi).  Most of these experiences would not happen on a tour.
I think they secretly thanked me when I exclaimed, “ok, enough.  Let’s let them get some sleep”.  We made plans to meet at 8:00 in the lobby for breakfast, with the caveat that if we are all there, great, if not, no prob.
I overslept and woke up at 6:30 to finish this journal.  No sense in waking JJ up at this point.  My cold is much better and will probably be mostly over when we leave tomorrow.  We plan to just do some shopping today.
Have a great day, Dudes and Dudettes!
Friday, April 17:
Normally, when we travel, we have many opportunities to shop while visiting sites or during a “slack” part of the day.  Somehow, time was never available on this trip and I can’t figure out why.  Probably is had to do with JJ not being able to get around on her own.
So we spent the whole day shopping.  Of course, the whole day for us is between 10:00 and 4:00.  After breakfast, we went to Harves which has an area that is operated by independent businesses.  The aisles were nice and wide so we could easily negotiate the store.
We were very fortunate as we went to Yodobashi Camera after that.  They are much more than their name implies.  We found stationary, a collapsible ice chest as well as food that we’ve been looking for several trips.  They even have their own “dollar store”.  The most fortunate happenstance was an elderly clerk who really went out of his way to help us find certain items, such as Tamarii Shoyu (which is really great on sashimi) and Iwashi Mentaiko (sardines stuffed with fisheggs).  When he found out that we were taking the fish to Hawaii after we asked for gel ice packs, he even found foam sheets and a Styrofoam platter to pack the fish and gel packs.  After dropping of the items in our hotel, we went back to take him a box of choc-macnuts.  Just as we were about to leave, he had searched for us and had some Japan snacks for us.
It was about 2:00 p.m. and we still didn’t eat lunch.  Our plan was to go to the Aeon Mall to buy the cooked Takenoko and eat lunch at a Korean restaurant that JJ liked.  We got the takenoko but by that time, we thought that we may as well just snack and eat an early dinner at the Izakaya that we like. 
So back to the hotel, snack, have a few Asahi’s and JJ goes to the Onsen.  When she returns, we eagerly go to the Izakaya, only to find that it’s too full to accommodate more guests.  We decide to go to Yodobashi and get some bento for dinner as both of us are pretty tired.  However, when we get to Yodobashi, we discover that they have a whole floor devoted to a restaurants.  We find a Korean place and wait in line.  JJ orders her Bi Bim Bop and me a Tofu soup.  Interestingly, the soup did not have kim chee in it, only pork and tofu and garnishes.  Even with my dead tastebuds due to my cold, it was quite good.  Just as I was taking pictures, the camera had a message, “Demo Mode”, meaning that the memory card was not installed.  I had left in the computer when I downloaded the only pic I took today, JJ with the Kyoto Tower.  Talk about “slide clutch” (big island slang for dimwitted as the power from the engine is not getting to the wheels because the clutch is slipping).
Finished the day by packing, then downstairs for my last serving of ramen for this trip.  Looking back, it was more of an adventure than normal.  We had to learn many new things and got to do a lot more than I expected (but a lot less than normal).
We really loved Nagoya and will return there again.  We met many helpful people and that is what makes Japan so special to us, the people.  It’s funny that the people here always seem to be hurrying somewhere and yet for the most part, are very courteous, patient and helpful.  Too bad they cannot export that along with their great products.
Until our next adventure, Sayonara, Dudes and Dudettes. 
Epilogue:
We are back and almost on track.  JJ went to see her doctor today and he was surprised that the ankle is healing so well even after traveling (little does he know how she was pampered).
One thing we wish we had done was to get a Go Pro so we could have videoed ourselves, in the rain, with JJ in the wheelchair carrying an umbrella low, and me pushing, wearing my raincoat.
Our experience when we got back to Honolulu was really bad, as compared to KIX.  After JJ was wheeled off the airplane, we and about 3 more wheelchair bound passengers and their travel mates were held in a locked area and told that it was policy that we had to wait for the shuttle.  Then they had the gall to say that they didn't know if the shuttle could accommodate everyone and their travel mates.  I was willing to wheel JJ to immigration but was told that we had to wait.
Like KIX, they had someone assigned to each wheelchair but unlike KIX, as soon as we went through immigration to the baggage claim area, all except one disappeared.  Fortunately, we were first but the remaining three were not too happy and I don't blame them.  I think I over tipped the guy with a $10.00 as he was really surprised and grateful, even though he had helped us take our baggage through customs to inter line our baggage to Hawaiian.
I emailed Hawaiian about this and I got their standard non-answer "answer", that they would refer this to the appropriate manager.  I hope Jet Blue comes in and shows HA what customer service is all about.  Those of you who have flown on Jet Blue know what I mean about superior customer experience by a domestic carrier.
I wish Japan could export their "customer first" mantra.